A visit to the Evian Spa at Three on the Bund was on my list of "must do's" while I was in Shanghai. Not only did its opening several years ago cause quite a splash, but Alexa Brue reviewed it in the May/June issue of Luxury Spa Finder Magazine, giving it a mixed review which meant I wasn't planning on dropping off any magazines during my visit.

Alexa had found that her facial was much better than the one her friend received, and that of course means an uneven experience. She did give the spa raves for decor.

I had the concierge at my hotel call to make the appointment so they didn't know who I was when I visited. I had also decided to have a facial. Happily my experience was positive for both the treatment and the decor. The facial was terrific (they use Clarins) and the aesthetician very nurturing - and yes, I did get a foot and hand massage as well. My only complaint was that the facial was given on a massage table where I was lying flat on my back with no pillow under my legs and no elevation for my torso. I'm OK in that position but I know it could be uncomfortable for many. It is interesting that they would miss such an important detail so easy to correct.

I learned that there are now three Evian Spas, one in France, this one in Shanghai, and one which just opened in Argentina.

The decor really does work - simple, mesmerizing, lots of white curtains, acrylic chairs, white lockers, candle light, white relaxation chairs with white comforters, white flowers, each treatment room wall with a unique texture and design. Mine had dramatic black and white marble (think cow) floor to ceiling. This spa's decor is an example of such creative, dramatic yet simple design, taking in the space is a large part of the experience. It just works so well that it trumps any small hiccups in the service.

My Thermes Marins facial was very good - and it is obvious that the estheticians here are well trained. I asked mine about her schooling, and she explained to me that she had to complete three years of training to become an esthetician. Compared to the short training programs in many parts of the world (including the U.S., where one can become an esthetician within months), the standards here are definitely higher. No wonder the reputation for skin care in France and other parts of Europe is so much greater. It makes me think of how many skin care products come out of France…more than from any other country in the world by far.

My esthetician was able to answer my question about a stubborn bump on my skin that has been there for months, explaining that it was a lipid and would need my dermatologist's attention. No esthetician or product would be able to relieve it. And even though I haven't checked with my dermatologist yet, the esthetician's "I've seen this many times before" attitude certainly gave me confidence that she knew what she was doing.

The spa uses Lancaster and La Prairie products, and used to offer Kanebo but dropped them after they became easily available in areas outside of the spa. Post-facial, I was shown downstairs to the water therapy area for my seawater bath and a massage.

Checked into my hotel - the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort - around noon. After a quick shower and change, I head over to Therme Marins for the two spa appointments that had been arranged for me. Ever since Lee Katzoff, owner of the Greenhouse destination spa in Texas, told me that the best facial she had received anywhere in the world was at Therme Marins, I have looked forward to experiencing one myself. You would have to know Lee to realize what that recommendation means. I have never met anyone with such high standards and exquisite taste.

I spent the first hour of my visit to Therme Marins - which is a three-story spa right on the Mediterranean Sea with spectacular 180-degree views from almost every room - in the company of the PR director, who gave me a tour and filled me in on the spa's history. The property has always been a place for thalassotherapy but was destroyed during World War Two. In 1995, the modern Therme Marins was created - directly accessible from the Hotel de Paris and L'Hermitage and a short walk from the center of Monte-Carlo.

Many of the spa's facilities have an ocean view, including the thalassotherapy pool, the café, the fitness center, and the hair salon. Everywhere you look, there is seawater.

More about that facial tomorrow…